Presidential elections in Ukraine - field notes

Although Ukraine's presidential race has been obviously overshadowed, to say the least, by the Bush vs. Kerry showdown those who want to know can find some coverage of it, for example in the Economist. However, it's mostly incredibly boring and requires in-depth knowledge of Ukrainian realities. This article is an exception.
Written by an American, Jake Rudnitsky, it presents the 'anthropological', eye-witnessing account of the elections, not some 'deep' pseudo-analytical shit.
Enjoy.